How-To: Hand stitched eyelets for period garments

Here is how I do my eyelets on linen kirtles. For these I am using size 8 Cotton Perle, which is easily found at most craft stores. High twist silk would work as well, for which I use Soie Perlee. I also use an embroidery needle which has a sharp tip and large eye.

First I measure from the center of the previous eyelet to the center of where I want the next one placed. I use a  seam allowance measure for this. I measure on the wrong side of the dress. (Note, the strip this is being sewn on is a double folded edge, so I am working through three layers of fabric here. It will add strength without having to line the bodice, or use a facing/interfacing)

Using the previous measurement I use an awl to create the hole, as it does not cut threads and so keeps the structural integrity of the fabric. Pushing the threads out of the way and covering them with the stitches also gives a very firm eyelet.

On the wrong side I come in from the sewn down fold, leaving a small tail, and out through the eyelet, to the front with the needle and thread. I leave the tail hanging out for later.

Flipping over to work from the front side, the needle is places into the eyelet, taking a small stitch (these for me are 4-6 threads wide on the base fabric) and back out the front. DO NOT PULL THROUGH YET! Note that the thread is coming out the previous stitch on the left, and I am working counter clockwise around the eyelet. Also note I am only 1 thread away from the previous stitch, if that.  Remember to tug that tail too on the first stitch so you do not loose it!

The thread comes out the left hand side of the previous stitch, OVER the needle then behind the needle in a clockwise wrap. This is the way to wrap when you are working clockwise around the eyelet. Doing this creates a small knot in each stitch right at the inside lip of the eyelet, creating strength and abrasion durability. It is a tailors buttonhole stitch. If I were working around the eyelet in a clockwise or to the right manner, I would wrap this step counter clockwise around the needle. (The video I am working on will show this)

I then pull tight 3 times, once towards the center of the eyelet, once away from the center of the eyelet, and then a third time towards the center of the eyelet. This ensures a nice tight knot and even stitch. Repeat around the eyelet. At the halfway point I use my awl again to enlarge the hole if needed.

When I reach the end of stitching, I take the needle through the eyelet to the back, burying the thread between the layers and emerging where the small tail I left earlier was. I tie these threads together using a surgeons knot.

Clip the tails and use the awl to stretch if needed.

Row of finished eyelets for spiral lacing.

Each eyelet takes me between 7-10 minutes, and I usually cut enough thread for two eyelets at a time.  I find that any more and the thread gets too worn to look nice, and or breaks mid eyelet which is a pain. I prefer mine fairly large, but smaller ones are faster.